Happy Wife, Happy Life

This one was an accident that included a bunch of 5.5 with one spicy, run out slab section. I didn't see it on here, so I decided to add it.

Intending to climb

Dancing Ladies

, we took the direct start just right of the

Central Chimney

and climbed a great 5.7 hand crack to the tree (as suggested in the

Dancing Ladies

comments). This is P1. Belay at the tree.

Here's where we diverged from

Dancing Ladies

:

P2. (5.8-) From the tree, instead of heading off right, go straight up from the base of the tree in an easy crack to a small ledge. From there, your only option is to delicately get out on the slab to the right. This is the crux of the route and the reason I tagged it "R". You are fairly runout, and a fall wouldn't be a good idea. Find tiny feet and good friction for a couple moves to a solid little ledge for your hands (still no pro). Traverse right and up to a crack where you can finally get a couple pieces in. Continue up on easy cracks staying just above the

Central Chimney

back and forth til you run out of rope.

P3/P4. (5.4-5.6) Find easy cracks and ledges above and just right of the

Central Chimney

. Finish and belay at the tree at the top of the chimney.

This shares the direct start of the first pitch with

Dancing Ladies

as suggested in the comments on that page.

A standard rack.