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Peak Mountain 3

Jetstream Deluxe

FA Malcolm Daly, Ed Eggers, 1974
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An enjoyable route that combines classic Greyrock slab and thin-crack climbing with a bit of liebacking and steeper face action, Jetstream Deluxe is a reasonable step up from the 5.8s in the area.

P1: Climb a short face into a shallow, right-facing corner with a diminutive pine tree in it. After the corner turns into a slightly steeper seam, traverse left (5.9) on face and thin-crack moves into a fingercrack. Climb this crack and trend right, linking discontinuous seams to one of two belay options - a small ledge with good pro, or, about 25 feet higher, a large ledge with a couple bushes and a large, steep corner on its right side. 5.9, 175+ feet.

P2: On the right side of the large ledge, lieback and undercling a right-arching flake (good pro) until you're able to stem the dihedral (5.8/9-). Gain a stance on a ledge at the base of a blank, dark scoop. The scoop presents an awesome-looking, but totally unprotected and probably hard, friction stemming problem - instead, take a couple steps backward on the ledge until you're able to step right around the arete to well-featured, though runout, face climbing (5.7R). Move up, trending left into a corner, passing a small overlap and gaining a nice belay spot near a pine tree at the base of a huge, left-facing dihedral. A really fun pitch. 5.9- (7R), 130 feet.

P3: Head straight up off the belay, climbing the face and large dihedral through easy terrain (5.4/5.5). Pass a large chockstone at the top of the corner, placing pro at your head to prevent heinous rope drag over the 'stone. Scramble up the slab, heading right through easy 5th/4th class terrain to the top, or aim straight up to pass a small bulge on good handjams and fingerlocks (5.6, fun). Either way, run out the rope to a good belay and scramble to the summit. 5.6, 200+ feet.

Location

About 70 feet left of The

Greatest Route

at Greyrock is a large, left-facing dihedral that rises off a grassy ledge. Jetstream climbs a brief right-facing corner equipped with a small pine tree about 10 feet left of the dihedral.

Protection

A standard rack up to #2 Camalot/#3 Friend is sufficient for this route. Go heavy on the small stuff (Micronuts, offsets, tiny cams) for P1. A couple long slings would come in handy on this route, particularly for pro placed at the top of the P2 dihedral.