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Peak Mountain 3

Simon

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Description

Another fun route up Greyrocks southeast slabs, with two interesting pitches (P1 and P3) amongst mostly easy climbing. This one climbs the hardest of the Simon, Alvin and Theopdore cracks. Approach as for Greatest Route, and continue to the left (south) along the base from that route for about 150 feet. Start in a left arching fist (only initially) to hand crack, just right of Alvin and Theodore.

P1: Climb this crack to ledges (5.7,70 feet), joining the other lines for an easy (P2: 5.3?) pitch to beneath the overhangs. The overhangs are visible in the 2nd Picture shown for the route Theodore. P1 and P2 can be combined for a very long (200+ foot) pitch to just beneath the overhangs.

P3: The crux pitch climbs the right traversing crack below the overhangs over initially lichenous rock. Either continue up the crack directly to its end. Or take a recommended small variation. Half way up at a ledge, move right 5 feet and climb a 'lightning bolt' shaped crack up, back into the traversing crack's crux moves. One can move directly above the overhangs (recommended -- tough for communication though), or take a gully to the right. Either way moves over easy terrain to a large ledge (5.8+,90 feet).

P4: Climbs an easy wide crack up to another ledge with a tree and bushes. (5.2?, 90 feet -- can be combined with P3 for a 200 foot stretcher). From this ledge it's no more than 200 feet of mostly 4th class climbing, perhaps with occasional 5th class moves to the summit area depending on choice of route. Personally I hopped left over a few shrubs and climbed the gully.

Protection

SR up #3 Camalot. #4 Camalot nice but not necessary.