False Prophet

The guidebook calls this route "stupendous," and I wouldn't argue. The original route starts just to the right of pitch 1 of

Practice Climb

, climbs that slab, turns the arete, and joins

Unbroken Chain

where the crack goes vertical. The second pitch climbs the spicy slab above

Sidewall's

first belay anchors to the hanging corner to the left of the second pitch of

Sidewall

. This second pitch is simply amazing, with stellar position, excellent movement and bomber protection (after the first runout)

Variation: Unbroken Prophet - this gets rid of the silly original start and allows one to link

Unbroken Chain

into False Prophet in one gobsmacking 130 foot pitch that might just be one of the best single stretches of climbing in Eldo. If you don't believe me, go give it a try. It has everything; lots of sustained 11+ climbing, sketchy gear, great gear, brilliant movement, great position and it just keeps going and going.

This is located in the

Sidewall

area. Either start the original way (not very good) to the right of

Practice Climb

or start with

Unbroken Chain

, and link it in one amazing pitch. You need a 70m rope to do this and get all the way back down.

A little bit of everything; nuts, cams, sliders and anything else you want to bring.