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Peak Mountain 3

Sundial

FA M. Brooks, L. Smith, 1981
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Sundial is a good, clean route, for the most part, but it is marred by too much traversing on ledges.

This route is a good escape from

Handcracker Direct's

top pitch in the event of weather, crowds, time, etc... or anything else that makes you want to miss the best part of that superior route. That said, the completest must do everything, and so this route is included.

From the base of the top pitch of

Handcracker Direct

, traverse right past the bottom of

Reckoning

and into a short dihedral. Climb this briefly to a solid ledge with a handcrack at the back, and traverse into a second set of shallow corners, which ascends to the top.

A belay can be built on top with some cams behind less-than-ideal flakes and boulders.

From the top, downclimb over and down to the east (~5.4 if dry with no snow), and then traverse left (now to the South, with your back facing Redgarden Wall) to a shallow corner and down to a rap tree, the first of several in a list of options that will get you back to the base.

Scrambling North around the back of the buttress to reach the

Handcracker Direct

walkoff is an option, but that seemed to be more work.

Location

This ascends a rising traverse of ledges and corners to the right of

Reckoning

from the last pitch of

Handcracker Direct

.

Protection

A light rack of nuts and cams.


Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John


  1. 23
    Sundial
    5.8
    Trad