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Peak Mountain 3

Warp Drive Overload

FA Mark Rolofson & Dan McQuade, 1987
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Warp Drive Overload is the overhung, narrow, face just left of

Practice Climb 101

. Hidden behind trees, this is one of the better double arete problems in the Western US.

Start on

PC 101

. Place some gear up high to protect stepping left to first bolt. Extend with three shoulder-length slings, then climb back down.

Step left onto prow and move up to first bolt.

Wayne Crill about to move up to the first bolt. Photo by Mt Project contributor Tom Delaney.

Use hands and toes on both aretes.

Wayne Crill. Photo by Mt Project contributor Tom Delaney.

Clip a second bolt from the not-so-incut hold that Wayne is reaching for in the photo below.

Photo by Mt Project contributor Tom Delaney. Submitted by Mt Project contributor Kevin Murphy.

Finishing off the crux requires commitment!

Photo by Mt Project contributor Phil Lauffen.

Protection

After the small gear placements on

Practice Climb 101

, just two protection bolts and then the double bolt anchor.


Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John


  1. 38
    Warp Drive Overload
    5.12a/b
    Sport