Alien Sex Toy

This seemingly neglected route seems to have been ignored for no good reason. It's actually quite good, not polished, and well-bolted. The grade is even fair on the YDS grading scale, not the typically merciless CRDS (Castle Rock Decimal System, which was first developed in Index). It deserves more traffic. I'd give it nearly four stars for BoCan, but the crux grip is a hint sharp.

Begin with some fun athletic climbing, culminating in a long move through a bulge. Traverse right to an awkward stance. Then do some tech climbing (go hard left at the 5th bolt), before gaining the

South Face

and a two bolt anchor.

It is in the shade after 2pm in the Fall. It's easy to toprope or hang draws from the second anchor on the

South Face

.

Begin just right of

The Gill Crack

.

5 bolts. A 0.3 cam protects the 5.9 section at the top, when you join the

South Face

.

Stick clip the first bolt (small cams and/or crashpads would work if you don't want to stick clip).