- Edit (TBD)
Description
This variation starts from the lower tier of the big ledge at the base of Cussin' Crack proper. From a fixed angle follow the crack system immediately right of the diheadral on Cussin' Crack (.9+). Join Sticky fingers just before attaining a bush covered ledge and follow that route to a two bolt anchor. This anchor should be backed up or avoided altogether as both bolts are 1/4". Pitch two (.9s) ascends up and left on slopers from the right end of the belay ledge. This is the same point where Western Pleasure and After Forever meet. A fixed lost arrow protects the first moves onto the face and a couple of TCU or Alien placements can be found before reaching a crack/flake that leads to the top.
Protection
Standard rack. Fixed pins at the start of both pitches and double (1/4") bolt anchor at the end of pitch one. Walk off from the top.
Routes in Castle Rock
- 29Cussing Fingers Variant5.9+Trad