- Edit (TBD)
Description
A good route with an emphasis on wider climbing.
P1) A loose start up a chimney past a bolt leads to thin fingers up high and deposits you into the base of the super chimney. (5.10-) 35 M
P2) Follow the cracks in the back of the massive chimney to a small ledge about halfway up. (5.10-) 20 M
P3) Continue up the back of the massive chimney up the steepening cracks to a traverse at a bolt and to the good ledge on the outside of the chimney. (5.10) 20 M
P4) Follow the right facing corner that starts wide with a bolt, goes to fists down to hands and then a bunch of blue collar offwidth to a small stance in the notch. (5.10+) 35 M
P5) Follow the wide chimney/ stem past a tree to a sandy ledge belay. (5.8) 20 M
P6) Follow the wide crack on the left, walk across the ledge and finish on the exit of "Enter Sandman" (5.9+) 20 M
Location
This follows the major crack system skiers left of "Enter Sandman" and is the closest established line to the waterfall in the back.
Start with the rap on E.S. but swing over to the next system skiers left. 6 single rope raps will get you to the base.
Protection
1x: .2 - .42:x .5 - 6Draws, slings70 M rope
Routes in Insomnia Canyon
- 8The Jamaican Bobsled Team5.10+Trad