Reign of Sand

From the anchor at the rim make 7 raps down Heir to the Throne. Rap 1 is down a low angled slab to a ledgy zone. Hike right out to a point with an anchor. Rap 2 goes across a gap around skiers left of a mungedoo and then over a lip to the right (40' Rap). Rap 3 straight down to an anchor in a alcove (35m). Rap 4 down to a anchor in the middle of a blank face (60'). Rap 5 down to a large ledge (100'). Rap 6 straight down (80'). Rap 7 straight down to ground (90').  Start on a sweet patio.

P1 - 5.12-

The Crux. Rad and unique mixed pitch.

P2 - 5.12-

Traverse left past a hard boulder problem then around an arete and across a corner moving up to a belay by a tree.

P3 - 5.11

Mega money pitch. Go up and don't pump out. Belay at bolts on a good ledge Long pitch ~160ft

P4 - 5.11-

Move directly right off the ledge and round the hanging arete into a wide crack. Move up past some cracks and a couple bolts to an alcove belay.

P5 - 5 .10+

Climb the wide crack above briefly before moving left to a face/arete with good horizonals. Move up and over a roof and bust right to an arete with a couple bolts.

P6 - 5.6

Move up and around the mungedoo

Intermission - Walk up right then left to the face you rapped down.

P7 - 5.9 d

Dresdoom memorial pitch. Start in a tree and go up.

The shortest approach is from above. Drive out Woody Mountain Road (FS 231) to FS 9019M (26.5 mi). Park at the end of the left fork of 9019M (Labeled 9014D on some maps). Parking area GPS coordinates are 34.993501, -111.779052.

From the parking area head north along the ridge, continue following it as it heads down and left. (There is currently a faint trail but the brush is growing up fast after the slide fire) After a few minutes you will come to a coconino outcropping/point with a decent sized carin. Wrap around the downhill side of this to the back (north) side (cairns) and head down a very steep gully with a short hand line. Continue down a steep but short slope to a saddle. From the saddle head west (left) down another gully keeping to the right side until you can exit right to a large flat bench of burnt manzanita. Follow this bench right and out to point to you left (cairn). Find a rap station just below the rim.

1x 0,1c3 2x .3,.4 3x .5 -.75 6-7 #1 2x #2 1x #3,#4 4 Draws 6 Runners 70m rope