Daedalus

Great mixed climbing up the central pillar of Insomnia Canyon’s east wall. The first 5 pitches are outstanding and worthy in their own right. A splitter 5.13- A0 king swing variation to pitch 3 brings the grade down to a more sustained 13-ish A0 and is very fun. P1. 12+/13- 4 bolts, fingers to hand size cams. P2. 5.12. 12 bolts, tips to finger size cams at the start and a #4 or a sneaky .1 near the end. P3. 5.13+ “The String” 5 bolts, med nuts, tips to fingers P3. Var. 5.13- A0 “The Splitter That Never Sleeps” One of the best splitters around, but it just gets smaller and smaller until it disappears into the blankness. After clipping the chains lower down, back clean some gear and pendulum into “the String” above the business, climb the last part of the string (12-) on a second rope. Bring extra .3 and .4s for this Var.P4. 5.13 12 Bolts, few finger size cams to startP5. 5.12+ “Wax Wings” 3 Bolts, tips to hand size cams, med nuts. Steep!P6. 5.10 1 bolt fingers to hands, kinda chossy Rappel Beta. Rap every pitch with a 70M rope, the 5th pitch is very steep, place directional gear or keep a swing. Bring your own long anchor sling for the top. All other anchors are equipped. 

Middle of the east wall, straight across from the spire,Top anchors are located down on a slab next to a lone bonsai ponderosa.

.1-#2 X 2 Med wires 12+Draws