Bluebird

It blows my mind that this pitch doesn't get more attention! It is utterly fantastic - clean, splitter, but still has lots of variation.

DO NOT CLIMB THIS VIA THE ORIGINAL START!!!

The top of the huge, leaning pillar is completely detached and moves if touched! The new approach is to come up either

Spring Fever,

Winter Delight,

or

Sufficiently Breathless,

continuing past the anchor up a broken crack to a new bolted anchor and start straight up from there. This adds the best bit of

Bluebird Direct

• the part that can be protected - and leads seamlessly into the upper section of this pitch.

Once at the anchor atop the flake, stem and layback your way up on small gear in the right-hand crack. The crack will slowly widen to allow for locking finger jams. As the left pillar gets further away, switch to stemming off of small features on either side of the obtuse dihedral. A distinct, thin crux hits you right before you get a rest on a ledge 2/3 of the way up. The crack opens to hands here but remains strenuous. A glory face-jug greets you at the top as you pull onto the ledge shared with

Right Gull

. Continue to the Grassy Ledges via this route and rappel

Jill's Thrill

or

rappel down the route with a 70m rope.

Straight above the "main face" of

Spring Fever

and the First Tunnel, which is just left of the

Little Wing

alcove

Doubles of BD 0.2-0.5, singles 0.75-3, plus a set of nuts