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Peak Mountain 3

Cloud Nine

FA 10.24.87 Wayne Wallace & Tim Olson
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

From the belay on Grassy Ledges head up right following a shallow ramp, finding good pockets and vertical seams for gear. It doesn't look like it from the belay but the start protects well with a smaller cam and another larger a few moves further. Continue up the slab trending right until below the first bolt. Climb up through the bolts (crux) finding good edges and a fun series of moves until the terrain eases. From the last bolt step left and continue straight up the corner and crack until you pull up on to a clean slab with a piton to the right. Traverse right to the piton and join the Young Warriors line from here; onward and upward through more fun climbing. Stop at the belay ledge typically used on the SE Corner route or in the alcove just below it, otherwise there is too much rope drag.

Finish up the 30' 5.4 section of the SE Corner route to the notch and then continue leftward for 160' up the rib to the end of the climbing.

Alternatively move right from the belay following the Young Warriors finish. Move up another slab ramp, then continue on passing a piton and one last bolt. Belay from the upper notch at a 2 bolt anchor.

Location

Cloud Nine starts off of Grassy Ledges and is best reached by climbing the first four pitches of the SE Corner to the start of the route or alternatively climbing Jill's Thrill and traversing right to the start of the route.

Protection

Camalot Sizes 0.2 - 2.0

Set of Nuts

3 bolts and 1 piton

The belay on Grassy Ledges requires at least a 0.4 & 1.0 Camalot


Routes in South Face


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    Cloud Nine
    5.9
    Trad