Right Gull

One of the earliest lines at Beacon, and considered a super-classic of the area. Quite adventurous for the grade, though the climbing itself is short and scrappy. The route can be climbed in different ways but locals have pieced together an ideal variation which requires a bit more gear. Both the original and alternative routes are described below.

RIGHT GULL ORIGINAL, 5.10a

P1: Approach by climbing

SE Corner

to Snag Ledge's bolted anchor. 25m

P2: Move down and left, stepping around a corner to a ledge with a piton. Clip it and make an airy step across to the next pillar and climb the right facing corner to its top. Make another more airy step across to the next pillar and belay at the bolted anchors. 25m

P3: Climb up the thin crack on the right of the belay, protecting it early with small gear and passing a piton to a large ledge. Move slightly right and up follow an offwidth to hand-sized crack to another large ledge. Walk left along this ledge to find the bolted belay anchor. 25m

P4: Ascend the wide crack by laybacking and utilizing face holds and pull over an awkward bulge reaching a ledge with an oak tree. Climb past the tree and into another easier layback right facing corner. Another short step takes you to Grassy Ledges where you can belay from a tree. 30m

RIGHT GULL ALTERNATE VARIATIONS 5.9

P1: Climb

Little Wing

and link into the second pitch from the piton ledge: make an airy step across to the next pillar and climb the right facing corner to its top. From here climb the crack directly above this pillar (VULCAN'S VARIATION, 5.8) to belay on the next ledge building an anchor with gear. 40m

P2: Climb the offwidth to hand-sized crack to another large ledge. Walk left along this ledge to find the bolted belay anchor. 15m

P3: Ascend the wide crack by laybacking and utilizing face holds and pull over an awkward bulge reaching a ledge with an oak tree. Look to your left and spot the clean finger crack (MURIEL'S MEMOIR VARIATION, 5.9). Climb this straight up to another ledge and follow a short step to Grassy Ledges where you can belay from a tree. 35m

Above and left of

Little Wing

, step across the pillar at the start of

Fear of Flying

Gear to 4" (despite of what Olson says)

Bring doubles of everything if linking pitches