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Peak Mountain 3

West Corner

FA Jerome Fitz And Milton Mugambe
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This three pitch route follows a series of corners on the West side of the Steeple. Pitch 1 Start on the large ledge below the first pitch of the Regular route. Climb the easy step approach past the hand-crack and through the trees and up and left towards a pair of right leaning ramps. Go right on the first ramp system and traverse r under a dirty arch. (Extra long runners) Sketch up the orange and black right-facing corner past a couple of pins and some small gear. Work right along good foot and hand holds ot a stance below a left facing corner that ends on a scree covered ledge. Climb the short corner to the ledge, and go straight back then rightup a blocky area to a tree anchor.40ft,5.10a Pitch 2. Climb the clean, steep, left-facing corner directly above the tree belay ledge. This pitch although short, is pumpy.50 ft. 5.10d. Belay from bolts on a sloping ledge system, below a short corner and roof crack(The Mad Hatter5.11b). Pitch 3. From the bolted anchor, below the left-facing, leaning corner, step right and climb the right-leaning ramp/corner, past a steep section where the crack "jogs" to the right. Punch straight up to the right side of a large ledge, sling a knob and step onto the easy featured face to the right, past a large spike to the larger summit top. Lower left(north) to the large ledge and two-bolt anchor of the Regular route. 100 ft. 5.10b

Location

The route begins below the Regular route on the west side of the Steeple. Descend by rappleling the Regular route.

Protection

Wires, TCU's and cams to 3" (2) eac 3/8" to !"