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Peak Mountain 3

Regular Route

FA Bill Rose and John Rotten
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This classic route follows the most prominent corner system on the west side of The Steeple. The first pitch although less than memorable, redeems itself before the anchor below the fantastic second pitch. Savor the incredible second pitch's thin hand jams The final squeeze chimney pitch deposits one on an exposed summit stand on top and bust the "Christ Redeemer Move"

Location

This route leaves the large ledge located up and left from the final approach gully. Pitch 1. Climb an easy series of steps leading to a boulder "split" by a handcrack. Climb past the boulder and through a couple of small trees. Go up and left through some low bushes, then climb up and right along a ramp system. Exit left, and climb a verticle, west-facing, hand crack to a sloping ledge. Go up and right to a nice ledge and two-bolt anchor.

Pitch2. Climb the beautiful corner above at the top of the corner section go left(east) along a wide hand crack to a point where you can look up and over to the east side. Follow the north-facing double cracks above 1" to a easy open book and ledge(be sure to protect the follower). Go right along a ledge to a two-bolt anchor. Pitch 3. Drop your gear and grind up the squezze chimney, solo the easy, but incredibally exposed northwest arete of the final summit. Clip the anchors on top and lower to the ledge and two-bolt anchor. Two single rope rappels get you to the base ledge.

Protection

Wires and cams to 3" (2)each 3/4" to 2" One 70 meter rope.