- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a great climb up the slab left of Top Gun. The upper portion climbs nice orange rock littered with knobs. Classic Shuteye Rock!
Start climb from ledge and clip two bolts on hard slab. The third/4th bolt involves micro edging/slab to stand on top of sloping knob. It is not over until you move off of the knob and gain easier ground on big holds (2 more bolts). Place 0.75"cam in flake (upward facing) and move up slab just left of right facing corner to small incipient crack. Get as high as you can and look for bomber nut placements (hard to find the slot). Add a long runner and move out left on very exposed slab clip a bolt and move left and up to another bolt. Once you have the second bolt clipped you can down climb and unclip bolt on traverse for your second. Continue climbing up amazing rock past 4 bolts and climb easy but runout to anchor. Rap anchor with two 70 m ropes. This crux is very temperature dependent. It will feel harder when it is hot. The climb is named after "Famous" wall climber Josh Mucci who was in the hospital that weekend with a busted belly from eating too much nuts on the wall!
11a, 10 bolts all 3/8" to 2 bolt anchor shared with 1st pitch of Top Gun.
Location
This climb starts on the slab left of Top Gun corner 1st pitch. Scrabble up and left until you can walk out right on ledge to the start of the route. Gear belay if desired.
Protection
Bolts and small nuts for gear
Routes in Chiquito Dome
- 13ThunderBelly5.11aTrad