Sweet Liberty

I think this is the best mixed climb on Chiquito put up in great style, many different moves.

Pitch 1. Climb up unprotected slab passing pro opportunities (loose flakes) until you can get a good nut in the bottom of the right facing flake (hollow).  Continue up the "fractured" flake placing gear and trying not to rip off the flake.  As the flake gets wider gear is more solid (3" to 3.5").  The flake arches right to undercling where one needs to pull over flake to slab.  Continue up slab clipping two 3/8" bolts to ledge with anchor (Replaced with ASCA rappel rings).   Rap with 70 m rope to the ground    5.8  (2 bolts)

Pitch 2. Mental Crux pitch.  Go up 15 ' and clip a bolt (3/8") and then make crux traverse up and right to small left facing flake.  The crux is at the end of the traverse trying to get to corner.  Once at the corner you can place pro (0.75") and continue on slab up and right clipping 6 bolts on runout slab.  The bolts are in good spots and the climbing in between is not that hard.  15' below the anchors the wall steepens.  Move through the steep section clipping a bolt and solve the crux moves to the anchors on knobs.  Awesome pitch.  5.10b 7 bolts some gear. (30 m)  From the top of the second pitch you can rap (rappel setup) to the first pitch of "Sweet Liberty" or the first pitch of "Too Old to be bold" with a 70 m rope.  Some 1/4" bolts have been replaced but there are a few that remain.

Pitch 3.  Head up and left on slab passing 5 bolts, some 1/4" bolts (solid) and 3/8" bolts on runout slab.  As you approach the anchors the climb steepens.  Belay at two bolt rappel anchor.  Can rap to the ground from here with 2 x 70 m ropes.  (35 m)   10a, 5 bolts

Pitch 4. Climb up from the anchor through broken rock and roofs placing gear heading towards a water streak that is protected by 3 good bolts (3/8").  Most rap here with 2 x 70 m.  I thought this pitch was as heads up as the traverse on pitch two.  It is insecure slab climbing up a water streak.  10a, 3 bolts (45 m)

Pitch 5. Climb up easy runout face with some gear and 1 bolt.  5.6, 60 m.  You can walk off to climbers right down gully.

As you hike up to the base of Chiquito right side this climb starts right of big right facing corner/crack (Top Gun).  There is an unamed 5.9 slab route then "Sweet Liberty".  It is too the left of "Too Old To Be Bold" .   It starts on broken slab with edges below right facing flake.

Bolts and gear (singles to 4")