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Peak Mountain 3

Obsidian Night

FA Mike Matheson, 5-2008
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb the Approach Route 5.7, clipping 2 or 3 bolts on the slab; look right before you get to the Approach Route anchor and you will see another bolt, clip this and down climb into the maw, stem across and clip the first bolt on the steep face, then reach back and unclip the bolt on the other side of the chimney to reduce drag. Continue up the steep face on pockets and edges to the anchors.

If using one rope, rap to midway anchors on El Grande.

Route is fairly sustained and difficult by shuteye standards for 10b. Probably is 10b, but no easier than many 11a routes at shuteye.

Location

Left of El Grande, on the right edge of the 10 foot wide black streak.

Protection

23 bolts (including the 3 bolts on the approach slab).