If you've ever climbed Upper Refuse and looked up at the offwidth crack that looms ominously over its first pitch...wonder no longer. This route gets nearly zero traffic, on account of the hideously dirty start and finish. Ignoring these, though, the middle is splitter and houses some serious teeth, so tape up and wear long pants...taped knees might not be a bad idea, too.  

  You can either climb the crack, which starts with a series of flakes, or you can avoid the grunge and climb a series of ledges which deposits you in an alcove below the nicer-looking section.

Black Crack (mid-cliff start)

Off the Hook

Fools Gold (Mid-cliff Start)

The Scenic Route

Reconciliation

The Last Gasp

Big Deal Rock Climb

The Book of Solemnity

Asylum

Perseus

Dresden

Final Gesture (mid-cliff start)

Retaliation

Layton's Ascent

Geriatric Challenge

Black Lung

Book of Solemnibeast (variation of Book of Solemnity)

Nutcracker

Hatful of Hollow

Chockline

The Grim Reaper

Youth Challenge

Nomad Crack

Lichen It a Lot

Upper Refuse

Jolt

Kim Jung  Il

Bad Dogs

Double Vee

The Arete (Mid-Cliff Start)

Chicken Delight

A Question Of Ethics

Webster's Unabridged

Medusa

Lichen Delight

Graverobber

A very committing lead up the spectacular knife edge just to the left of Black Crack and Upper Refuse. Due to the run outs on this climb it is not popular with modern climbers and is rarely led.It was the hardest lead on the Barber wall in the 1970's however it was by Ed Webster. 

  P1)Stay on the edge of the arete, laybacking some flakes, then a hard move to a small overhang. Follow thin cracks to a bolt and stance. Face climb straight up (5.11b R) to a ledge. Then follow incipient cracks (5.9R) to the top. 165' 5.11b R.

Although neglected and a little dirty, this climb is SUPERB.  Techy face climbing on small, hidden crimps.  Look for an undercling/ layback 20' left of Chicken Delight.

Start from the bolt anchor at the top of pitch one on The Book of Solemnity. Step right and climb a right leaning flake. Two bolts protect a short but stout crux and easier climbing leads to a bolted anchor.From the anchor you can traverse left into The Book, Websters Unabridged, or Bad Dogs.Hardware was upgraded Fall 2017.

P.1 (5.8)  Climb around the left side of the Joke Book roof, past 2 ledges, up right past the thin crack, and join Balck Lung.  Belay as for Upper Refuse P.1.P.2 (5.7R) Face climb up the low-angle arete right of Refuse.  Finish in the wide crack of B of S.

Move up short corner to ledge. Then traverse left until you get to the crack. That's the R section its 11ish. Follow crack past several hard sections to bolt and to ledge with pine tree on rt side.

If you've ever been standing at the tree ledge belay of Upper Refuse and looked up to your left and said, what's that badass crack in the corner with those pins, you're not alone. Ive wondered the same thing for years, so I finally found out.The Last Gasp starts off the pitch 2 belay of Upper Refuse and makes a few thin moves into a right facing corner. The crack gets better as you move up but is thin throughout. Climb up and past 2 pitons, move slightly left, then do a badass mantle over the top of the cliff. Belay from trees.

A worthy route. The climbing up to the overlap can feel a bit heady, but is really good. Probably worth brushing the pine needles off the top out before leading it, you wouldn't want to fall off up there. You can bang a left and top out Layton's, avoiding the last 15'. 

This gorgeous line starts to the right of the start of Upper Refuse and Black Lung.  

  P1- 5.10a- 80'- Climb the dihedral past two pins and traverse under the roof (crux)  and up to a two bolt belay ledge on the right hand face. 

  P2- 5.10a- 120'- Step left off the belay ledge and continue up the crack system until it ends. Traverse left onto a small ledge (crux), and follow over to the top section of upper refuse. Belay from the top of Upper Refuse. If you are not using double ropes, don't place any gear on or after the traverse. If you do, your second could take a nasty swing.

This is a long pitch that's a bit strange for the Barber Wall, in that it's not a powerful crack or a cryptic face climb. Being slightly obscured from view by branches as well as appearing a bit chossy from below tends to keep this one from being climbed much, but the meat of the climb is good quality. Start up on the big ledge above the climber's trail. Climb up and left following some funky flakes to the obvious dike. Climb up the dike towards the overlap above, aiming for the right facing corner. Climb the corner (crux) through interesting moves. Much like other routes on this wall, the top section of this climb is easier, but also kinda dirty and lichenous. 

Start up Reconciliation and go right up to a bolt and straight up from there.  Little wires in a seam and another bolt protect the business. Then follow Medusas finger crack to the top. A link up of routes with some new climbing in the middle. The line is the rapple line off the Lichen Delight ledge so you can scope the line that way.

A tough little number. Start up Nutcracker then move left to a thin finger/layback crack. James followed barefoot ALA Dresden.

Though a little dirty at times (mostly lichen), this route deserves attention. Compared to fighting the crowds on upper Refuse (5.5), climbing this route is a no-brainer, as long as you are solid in the grade.

 After climbing half of the 2nd pitch of Upper Refuse, break left heading up towards an obvious detached block at the top of the cliff. Climb to a fixed pin (you can back it up with a nut), then follow the lichen covered low angle face up and left (can feel a bit spicy) to a crack that will bring you to the block.

 Layback then mantel the block or hump your way over it and step left and to the cliff top. Belay from trees.

This climb is one of those that the first time you look at it it makes you feel like you must climb it. It speaks to you and draws you in. That is both good and bad: good because it is a stellar route, bad because it can draw you in when you are not ready. There have been a few injuries on this climb over the past few years due to people getting pumped, stuffing in less than optimal gear, and then falling from the powerful pumpy layback crux. 

  It's a great climb, so by all means climb it, but be sure to take the time to make every piece count. There is good gear all the way. but it can be tough to see, since the crack is at your knees much of the time. 

  Pitch 1: (5.6) Climb the right leaning crack off of the ledge to a small belay stance to the right of the crack. It's a hand and fist size for the most part. Build an anchor in the crack. 

  Pitch 2: (5.9) Continue along the crack using face holds when they present themselves. It is possible in a few spots to step down and right to get a good view of your placement, and the climbing to come. The crux comes as a tough, burly, layback as the crack steepens. Take the time to protect well. After that you get to a stance below a final crack. The original line went right around easy climbing to the ledge, but if you want another 5.9 crux then fire the crack straight up to the ledge. Belay in a crack on the ledge. 

  Pitch 3: (5.6) Head up the cracks past a pin to more easy climbing and in to the woods at the top. Belay from trees. Hike off, or hitch a ride...

The right of two diverging cracks. Climb the crack with liebacking and jamming. A little more strenuous than Chicken Delight.

This is a direct variation to Youth Challenge (which is listed as a direct variation to Retaliation!)  Generally it climbs right of YC, joining Retaliation at the top.  Description from Ed Webster's 1996 White Mountains-East guide.P.1 (5.10b R)  Ascend a steep crack left of YC.  Short pitch.P.2 (5.10)  Climb the righthand crack, quickly joining YC.P.3 Finish up Retaliation.

If this route would just go on forever, my life would be complete. The flow of movement and aesthetics on this climb are great. The only problem is the it's only 100ft long. For a great climb of a consistent grade, climb Bombardment(5.8) to Black Lung, to Final Gesture (5.8), an awesome link up. 

  For Black Lung, start up easy ground. It's maybe 5.6 for the first 2/3 of the route. Follow cracks and jugs to a pretty right-facing corner/crack. Move through a technical crux, which consists of 5.8 jamming and finding the somewhat hard to locate feet (mostly out right). This will leave you at the first belay on Upper Refuse (5.5). 

  Belay from here, or run all the way to the top of Refuse with a stretch of a 60m rope. It's also possible to finish up Final Gesture which is a fave of mine.

This superb variation avoids the awkward second pitch of Book of Solemnity, instead taking you up the Beast Flake and Recompense. 

  1. First pitch of Book of Solemnity (5.10-, 75')   2. Follow the obvious crack at the right end of the belay ledge (an easy section of Women in Love), and move up and right to the belay at the top of the Beast Flake (5.7, 50')   3. Finish on Recompense (5.9, 50'; 5.9, 75').

Many find this climb to feel more 5.10ish but respect must go to Henry Barber and others for not bitching about grades and leading it with just nuts. 

  This beautiful crack ranges from fingers to wide hands and is stellar from top to bottom. The crux comes at about the 1/3 mark and involves thin fingers and/or long reaches to good locks. Many folks find the route to be a pumpy one If you are pumped at the top, the last moves of the route will feel a bit cruxy too.

Climb Retaliation and move left from first belay and follow 3 bolts up to small ledge and move right to 4 more bolts.

If you've ever been walking towards Youth Challenge and wondered what that crack left of The Arete was, here you go. Chockline is another often overlooked hard 10 crack that seems to be generally overlooked by people heading towards the classic moderates. So if you’re trying to beat the crowds and don’t mind some spicy 10d groveling, this might be for you.Pitch 1 (5.9):This is a short pitch and you could probably link them, but would make communication and rope management harder. Climb the right hand of the 2 cracks. Pull over onto the ledge and belay from gear. Pitch 2 (5.10d):This is the crux pitch. Climb a wide crack off the ledge to where it terminates. Break straight up through a section of orange rock using a few tricky face holds into the wide crack above. Climb the steep and burly crack on #4 and #5 cams, progressing with groveling and stemming to the crack on the right (smaller and more finicky pro). Here the climbing degrades into a low angle gully. Top out and belay from trees.

The rounded vertical crack system up the continuously steep wall, cruxy at the top.  There are some wide shallow cracks.  Strenuous jamming and laybacking on very nice, rough rock.  A committing piece of work.

Wow... much better than I thought it would be. Not that Youth Challenge doesn't look cool, but the second pitch is super fun. The first pitch is a strenuous good time and you should just do it. I love the position of this part of the wall--really nice exposure and view 

  Pitch 1: (5.10b) Start by jamming and laying back a bit of a grunt of a 5.10 crack. I've heard grades of 10b to 10d, but whatever it is, just plug some gear and hold on until the slightly slopey top out. The gear is harder to get at the crux, so plug a bit down low. Belay with gear and a single bolt. 

  Pitch 2: (5.10b) Again folks will argue about grades, but this seemed about right to me. Start up a hand crack on the left, then transition to the right-hand crack by way of a good foot. Protect well and make a 5.10 move up in to the sustained upper part. After the crux move, it's sustained 5.9 climbing for the most part until you meet up with Retaliation and get a little rest before that route's pumpy layback crux. Head straight up to the ledge or skirt around to the right. Belay from the ledge on gear. 

  Pitch 3: (5.6) Head straight up the cracks to the trees.

Nomad Crack is a tricky route that starts straight up for 20ft before following the crack right. This right-angling crack contains the route's thought-provoking crux. Many people undercling through the crux, but I stayed low, using marginal locks but pretty good small feet to gain the finger-lock that marks the end of the crux section. After the crux, head straight up again following the crack past at least one more tricky move to gain the summit. 

  This is one of the only routes in this section that has a nice easy finish. Though it might be a little dirty, it is secure chimney climbing for the last 10 feet. 

  Like a true Henry Barber climb, expect hard for the grade climbing on a killer crack line.He was truly the man at that time. It seems he had something to do with almost every crack climb at Cathedral between 5.9 and 5.11.

Lichen It a Lot is another great crack climb on the Barber Wall. Only 30ft of the climb is different from Lichen Delight (5.11a),  but this finish gives it a totally different feel over all. Though the grade is a bit lower I don't see one easier than the other. 

  Climb the awkward corner hand crack of Lichen Delight to a nice resting stance below a roof. While Lichen Delight goes out right at the roof, Lichen It a Lot goes out left and makes a few hard moves in to a small, left facing, bottomless corner with a very thin crack in it. Getting in to the corner is hard, but there is good pro and once established in the corner there are decent finger locks to the top. Move right and belay from gear or a large pine tree. Rap from the tree with one 60m rope (tie knots in the end).

Upper Refuse is an awesome, moderate route with great climbing, great protection, and great exposure for the grade--a true Cathedral classic. One of very few, real moderates on the cliff, this is a perfect first trad climb.  

  It can be accessed by hiking around from the top along the big ledge. If you are a beginner, you might want to rope up for the last part of the scramble due to the danger of a BIG fall if you slip. Most people climb Upper Refuse after coming up Fun House (5.7) or another moderate route, though as the name implies there is a Lower Refuse which is not nearly as popular. 

  Pitch 1: (5.3) Start up the ramp on really easy climbing, and keep an eye out for a few good slots for cam placements. Belay at a good stance at a few pins (back em up with gear) at the top of the ramp section. 

  Pitch 2: (5.5) Choose your own adventure. Go right up a groveling "V" chimney (not hard but not too fun, in my opinion), or from the belay go up and left following cracks to a layback and a few slabby moves (much more fun). These two choices meet up in a gully formation which you follow to another choice. Breaking right up a crack directly to a pine tree ledge is preferred by most; however, you can avoid a little difficulty by continuing up the gully, then stepping right on to the ledge. Belay from a pine tree on a very comfortable ledge. 

  Pitch 3: (5.5) Two choices again: follow cracks and face climbing straight up above the ledge (this is the usual finish and the one I like better), or if exposure isn't your thing, stick to the corner on the left following a wide, layback crack. Both of these lead to the same ledge at the top where you can go up a short slab to belay from trees. The pins were removed from the top of the climb last season and I think it stayed that way. 

  The climb can be done in one long rope stretch with a 60m rope. Rope drag can be rough so plan for that in advance. This is one of the most crowded climbs on the cliff, so on a busy day, plan on making a day of it and meeting lots of new friends.

On any given bluebird day, Jolt is bound to be free of climbers and in need of some well-deserved attention.   

  Compared to its neighbors, Jolt is the black sheep of the posse--it is NOT a crack climb.  On the contrary, successfully climbing this pariah depends mostly on your ability to sprint up sharp/positive edges on a vertical face through a steep AND crimpy crux right before the topout.   

  Punctuated with three well-placed bolts and few small cams, Jolt is a great--and fun--alternative to the cracks surrounding it.       

The pitch free climbs an abandoned Joe Cote aid route; two of its first three bolts are replaced 1/4"-ers.  There was some rusty, light duty bail gear on the third bolt when I found it.  Joe said the initial seam was the hardest aid climbing he had ever done; he was kicking out pins with his knees as he tried to climb past them.  Above the third bolt its all new terrain.  The pitch has a variety of climbing from techy Cathedral footwork, a couple of dynamic moves, some wild undercling traversing, a bit of finger crack climbing, and some unexpected sequences.

Very cool thin face climbing in an airy location.  I'm not sure this has seen a second ascent. I've been trying it occasionally for the past year and still haven't done all the moves.  If anyone has successfully sent it please chime in.  The guidebook emphasizes small holds and hard clips.   

  This route was cleaned last year and was rebolted even more recently.

Double Vee is a classic example of Cathedral 5.9+ and can feel really stiff until you get the beta dialed in. Then it only feels a little stiff. I know the first time I did it I threw in a few 5.12 moves where I could have saved some energy with better beta. It looks much more easy and straightforward than it is, so brace yourself... 

  Climb mostly face holds along a thin crack through the first "vee" notch. This gets you to a nice rest stance. Then head in to the second "vee" (small nut for protection) and on to a surprisingly challenging mantel finish.

The left of two obvious, diverging cracks. Climb the mostly fingers crack to a good rest, then finish with a few bolt-protected fun moves.  

A cool route that follows the rightmost of the two dike features up the Barber Wall. Similar to Asylum, the start and finish being a bit dirty, the route being slightly obscured from view of the trail and just not being as classic as it's neighbors, this route doesn’t see as much traffic. But if you’re looking for another low 11 with some cool moves on it, definitely worth checking out. Start as for asylum, but instead of following flakes out out left, face climb up and right to the rightmost dike. Follow the dike to a steep overlap (crux) past 2 bolts. Follow another dike through smooth, dark rock, up and right to a dirty top out groove. 

Webster's Unabridged is a nice challenging (and a little spicy) finish to The Book of Solemnity. From the belay, head up the sweet moderate corner to the roof (crux) where you would move left on the regular version. Instead, continue up and slightly right, getting some good gear. You will see an obvious undercling traverse to the left. Get a good piece before the traverse because you get tricky gear or nothing until you finish the 15 foot traverse. Here you will have a tricky move to gain good holds and good gear that will get you over the top. 

  I found the moves to be quite fun...

Climb up Retaliation and move left. Climb up a rounded grove passing 3 bolts to small ledge. Move left again and climb crack to ledge.

Wow. What a climb. First I'll say this: Climb it because it rules! 

  Lichen Delight is Cathedral 5.11 crack climbing at its best. This is a great way to break in to 5.11 climbing at Cathedral. Though its not soft in the grade, it is well protected and as moderate as 5.11s get at this cliff. Lichen Delight is also much longer than the other classic 5.11a: Airation. As you might guess, this one is a test of endurance rather than a few hard moves. 

  There is an obscure 2nd pitch, but most people will rap off from a tree with slings. You can also traverse right to the finish of Retaliation (5.9, however, the finish is 5.6). 

  Right from Nomad Crack (5.10b) find the left facing corner with a small tree growing out of it low down and a handcrack splitting it. Start from a ledge and do a boulder problem to get up in to the corner. Climb the corner utilizing the hand crack. This part is moderate and really fun but not to be taken lightly. Conserve energy for the crux. The corner ends at a roof. Protect and exit right around the roof/corner to gain a finger crack. Follow discontinuing wide finger cracks and not-too-good jams up and left to a final awkward crack at the top. Throughout this section, finding the right feet is important to convince your hands that the jams are good. At the top move right to belay from a tree ledge. 

  Writing this description just made me want to run out and climb it again...

Start up the alternate right hand start to Nomad Crack. At the end of the crack, trend right then straight up past bolts and finish up rounded crack to top.

The Barber Wall is the upper left wall of Cathedral Ledge, so named for Henry Barber and his extensive collection of first free accents on this section of the cliff. Barber was involved in the freeing of every crack from Nutcracker rightwards to Lichen Delight. All of these are classics and none are light in the grade.

 This wall is one the best places to practice crack climbing if you plan to get on the longer more committing crack climbs on the cliff. The skills you learn on these 60 to nearly 200 foot climbs (the cliff gets taller as you head to the right toward Retaliation) can even be well applied to walls like Cannon Cliff or even the big walls of Yosemite. Locals often meet here for after work sessions in the evening so it is possible to meet partners here for some cragging.

 Though this area is known for its cracks there are a number of desperate sport routes and mixed (bolt/trad) climbs. In the winter, ice covers much of the cliff making for great steep ice climbing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Barber Wall