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Peak Mountain 3

The Arete (Mid-Cliff Start)

FA Ed Webster, Paul Ross Sept 3, 1978
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A very committing lead up the spectacular knife edge just to the left of Black Crack and Upper Refuse. Due to the run outs on this climb it is not popular with modern climbers and is rarely led.It was the hardest lead on the Barber wall in the 1970's however it was by Ed Webster.

P1)Stay on the edge of the arete, laybacking some flakes, then a hard move to a small overhang. Follow thin cracks to a bolt and stance. Face climb straight up (5.11b R) to a ledge. Then follow incipient cracks (5.9R) to the top. 165' 5.11b R.

Location

Cathedral Ledge.START on Upper Refuse and branch off left onto the arete.

Protection

Normal Rack.