Hard crack start that eases up considerably after ~ 6 meters.  I found the first 3-4 meters to be the most difficult; the crux is the first 4 meters.  NOTE: I think this climb goes at 5.8+.

Beat Feet

Gargoyle

Halloweenie

Mutt

Harpoon A Troon

Epacondilitis

White On

It's Your Party

Tumbling Dice

Rest in Peace

Sinbad (Variation)

Jungle Gym

Space Cadets

Jeff

Leave It To Beaver

First I've got to say I only climbed the first 80' or so, I belayed and ended up rapping off from under the roof. This thing is action-packed. The first 35' or so is a tenuous seam that is quite delicate and takes thin gear. This is listed as 5.9 in the book, harder in my opinion. Gain a ledge, clip an old bolt, continue up into a slanting hand crack. Have fun switching from jams to lieback when it opens up. I belayed under the roof, but the route continues up past the roof, through another seam, eventually to a 2 bolt anchor. 2 rope rappel from that point, 1 rope gets down from under the roof.  

  One of the better single pitches of granite I've done.

Although short and almost overlooked, well worth a quick trip to discover and unlock the crux.  The rock is decent down low and excellent at the top with a perfect small cam placement to protect the final moves.

Either climb directly out of cave with bad rock or traverse face right (towards tree) and then back left and up to access good crack.  Suspect rock and gear await prior to gaining crack.  The climb felt a bit harder than it looked.

The first pitch is a really fun 5.7 crack on its own. Follow flakes up and left to wide lieback flake, then to a straight in hand crack up to large ledge. 

  From here you can either rap off a slung pinch point between boulders, or continue to the top of the wall on either Leave it to Beaver, Mutt, Jeff, or Harpoon a Troon. 

  Mutt follows the left leaning dihedral/undercling (wide pro) to a crux thin crack in a corner and then up face to the top. 

  It would be wise to bring webbing to reinforce rap stations.

Start about 8 feet up on a ledge (easy scramble) and follow discontinuous, sometimes bushy cracks, up obvious line and then right at a jagged flake/broken face that protects well (crux). After pulling over the flake anchors are a short jaunt up easy terrain.   First 20-30 feet has sparser protection opportunities with some easy slab between cracks.

The crux is doing a "one-move-wonder" at the mini-roof.  Well protected by a bolt.  The remaining face climbing is typical crimps and edges, 5.8 stuff.

Perhaps half way up to Morrel's Wall from the old parking there is a free standing pinnacle.  Route is on the downhill (north) side of the formation.  Tricky slab moves bring you to a steeper headwall to the topout.  I remember being able to go either right or left to finish, both seemed about the same in difficulty. 

  From Glen Dickenson, one of the FA party:   "Route was originally done by Glen Dickinson, Jim Zahn and John Ficker in 1984. Jim Zahn placed the bolt and gave the next lead to Glen who made it to the top without adding another bolt. We talked about adding another bolt but if I had the right gear I could have put in a couple of pieces so we left it as it was led FA."

Fun, easy, warmup route.  Crux comes down low after passing a few chockstones, remainder of the route is straightforward.  Passes through a series of shrubs and plant material enroute to the summit.

This route starts off a boulder leaning on the face. It takes a right leaning crack that curves back left with good jams climb slab to a boulder on a shelf with a bolt. You could belay 30’ below on the shoulder using the anchors to the sport route or from the bolt on the Boulder covered ledge which can be backed up with gear. Walk back to the double cracks climb up 30 feet to the next ledge to double bolt belay. CLIMB the left-leaning crack that curves up over the steep face and slabs out for 50 feet to the summit with two bolts rap station. Descend the route 

The variation shares the first two bolts with Sinbad, but instead continues up and right through various crimps and edges to a small roof. The next moves require a mantle step up through three more bolts of precision edging and opposing holds. There is a slight run out between the second  to third bolt of the crux. When your reach the last of the three crux bolts, the route eases off dramatically in difficulty. From here, you go left on a large flake joining up with the last two bolts of the original Sinbad. The large flake is also an optional gear belay with 4" gear, We broke the pitches up to enjoy the view , with creative runner usage it could be linked safely through a 70m rope. The Rappel is a double rope rap off great anchors with chains.

Positive edges lead to a bolt at 12', which protects the crux 5.11 slab moves just beyond. Move up and slightly right into a thin seam, which widens into a dirt filled hand crack/flake and easier climbing. After passing a couple bushes angle left up to the finish of Beat Feet. Move left out of the double offwidth exit to the bolted anchor for Beat Feet. Two raps with a single rope to get down.

Pitch 1 (5.7) Climb through easy overlaps to small ledge. Follow finger crack to top of formation. 

  Pitch 2 (5.10a) Move right and up through brush to base of slab. Follow left bolt line past 3 bolts (old!) to top.

A great line hidden from sight. Technically a 3 pitch route it's best to skip the first pitch and link 2 and 3.    Starts in a wide chimney with a flake inside of it for good gear and perfect hand jams. About 35ft up exit left off jugs to a short corner. Above is a set of bolted anchors, skip those and aim for the furthest right crack which is actually a big flake that becomes overhanging towards the top, mantle where the crack dies out, take a breather, clip a bolt and surmount the easy final bulge to another bolted anchor.    Rap with one 60m rope.

Morrell's Wall lies in between the Sven Slab area and Gardener's Wall. It's a ways up on the side of the slope and the approach is a bit of a grunt. Normal approach is to cross over left (east) thru the Morrell's Wall Parking Lot and head up the ridge to reach the bottom of the wall. You pass the super thin Tumbling Dice route on a small pinnacle on the way up to Morrell's. There are some good routes up there that are worth the hike.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Morrell's Wall