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Peak Mountain 3

Leave It To Beaver

FA Old School
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A great line hidden from sight. Technically a 3 pitch route it's best to skip the first pitch and link 2 and 3. Starts in a wide chimney with a flake inside of it for good gear and perfect hand jams. About 35ft up exit left off jugs to a short corner. Above is a set of bolted anchors, skip those and aim for the furthest right crack which is actually a big flake that becomes overhanging towards the top, mantle where the crack dies out, take a breather, clip a bolt and surmount the easy final bulge to another bolted anchor. Rap with one 60m rope.

Location

Left of Mutt and Jeff in a right facing Chimney. Either climb P1 of Epacondilis, Mutt, or Jeff then look to the climbers left or scramble up and left from the base of these routes and behind a giant flake.

Protection

None bigger than #2 C4 Needed. I walked gear up the chimney part to the exit to avoid rope drag. Long runners are helpful.