- Edit (TBD)
Description
Just right of
Break on Through's
large dihedral is a steep crack system that leads to a large roof. This is actually a better pitch than
Break on Through's
1st pitch but it doesn't look that great from the base.
Take the thin crack straight up to roof, turn roof around left side and cruise to tree. 2nd pitch moves up thru rotten band and takes the right crack/corner system (left is
Break on Through
) up the headwall. Very steep crux but great pro and jams take you to the large ledge with 2 bolts at the far right. You can also downclimb to a dirt ledge, then head south about 10 feet and find a cable/rap station, with one more rap below that which will take you the base of The Unsaid.
Protection
Small cams (Aliens, TCUs) to medium....stoppers work nice too. Tree anchor for 1st pitch (same as
Break on Through
) and 2 bolt anchor for 2nd (rappel anchor).
Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
- 13Chianti5.8+Trad