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Peak Mountain 3

Sunshine Wall

FA A. & M. Sharp
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The route is in the popular Unsaid area of the West Ridge. Use the directions from

The Unsaid

,

Washington Irving

, or

Cruising for Burgers

to locate this area. Once the area is located, find the climb

Washington Irving

. To locate Sunshine Wall, look at the top of

Washington Irving

and follow a ramp down and to the left. The "ramp" is very small and is sloping down outwards, and on the right side, but is coming from the left of the top of the pitch. The ramp is anywhere from a few inches wide at the top to huge at the botom (before disappearing [beneath] a large roof). The smallness of the last bit of ramp makes the climb somewhat awkward. Follow this line down until the ramp becomes much larger, below and left of a massive roof/ bulge. That is the upper portion of Sunshine wall. A few hand-sized [pieces] protect that section, if memory serves me correctly. The crack system leading directly up to this ramp (a little chunky) is the first part of the climb.

Alternatively, to find the climb... scramble up some Class 4 rock to get to the good rock and then look just a few feet to the right of the line

Chianti

(left of

Washington Irving

). Start up the chunky crack system near a small pine tree. The crack system peters out a bit after a bulge, then go up a face/slab to the afforementioned roof, where you tend to the right to gain the small part of the sloping "ramp", which is followed up and right to the tree.

The climb is described as 2 pitches, but with some longer slings can easily be done as a single pitch.

Rap from the top of

Washington Irving

.

Protection

Standard Rack with a few cams. It can be TR'd from the tree and anchors above Washington Irving.