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Peak Mountain 3

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Description

I’ve amended this from new information.  This from the Roper High Sierra Guide:  ”Far West Country”

“A few hundred feet up and left of the rope-up spot for Great White Book is a large pine. Above this are SEVERAL PROMINENT STRAIGHT IN CRACKS. A class 4 pitch leads to the pine and from here a short crack leads to friction slabs to the right of the straight-in cracks. Several moderate pitches lead to the giant dihedral or ramp used in the descent“.  These cracks are directly above a short slab section above the “Far West Country” start crack (ya, confusing. See photo).  There are different variations to get to them. One is to go up FWC crack to them.  Probably how they were originally done. The other is to climb slabs to right of FWC (the way I go because FWC crack can be dirty).  These cracks are 5.4 and are excellent first cracks to lead and are clean and easy to protect.  Pro to 3 inches. Some history:  There used to be an old lone anchor bolt about 180’ up so it was first climbed some time ago  It was replaced by Roger Brown a few years ago with an ASCA anchor bolt.  A rap station for a new climb on the arete to the left of the left crack was installed sometime between 8/14/21 and 9/10/21 and has replaced this bolt with a ring anchor and a ring anchor added.  The original bolt anchor was placed back in the day before wide gear was available.  Most build a gear anchor now. You can see other examples of this in TM and directly across from this route at the top of pitch two on the “White Flake”.  That single bolt is directly above another new route installed sometime between 8/14/21 and 9/10/21.  It still has the ASCA hanger and has not been turned into a rap station.   These cracks get rope climbed and soloed quite frequently.  Administrators:  Someone edited original post.  Please do NOT EDIT.  Thank you, Tony

Location

The obvious corner crack just right of Turkey Trot. Or slabs right of crack.

Protection

Gear to 3”