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Peak Mountain 3

Great White Book

FA Hope Morehouse, Jim Baldwin, and Jeff Foott, 1962
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A long, awkward, wide crack can surprise many 5.6 leaders. Pro is sparse and hard to place, especially if you don't have some huge pieces (5-6 inches), resulting in long runouts. But it's a beautiful long line straight up almost to the top of the dome.

P1 and P2 are pretty straightforward 5.6 and easier climbing. P3 and P4 are the mental crux - try not to get sucked in too deep, keep your feet on the main wall and your back on the right wall. The angle is low, so if you keep upright, it's trivial, but it probably won't feel like it. Don't pass up a place to get in some pro these two pitches - you won't find many. P4 is also poorly protected face climbing, moving left until you hit slabs.

Location

Park beside the dome and lake. The book should be obvious as long as you're not on the extreme east end of the dome.

Protection

The biggest pieces you got. A few bolts provided for anchors.