- Edit (TBD)
Description
Climb up the easy, but runout ledges (5.3-ish) to a larger ledge beneath a steep wall with a diagonal crack. Make a few difficult moves to gain the crack and climb this to a good ledge. Step across the small gap to a notch in the wall at the ridgeline and make a belay.
To descend, you can walk off north towards the Observation Deck, rap off the pine tree in front of you, or downclimb Pooh's Corner (5.2).
The crack protects very well, it's just a shame it's so short.
This climb was originally listed as a variation to Long Leggedy Beasties, a supposed 5.4 climb in this area. In the research for Ed 4, I searched a long while up there for anything in that range and found nothing else to lead me to believe there's a 5.4 (or even close to that grade) route there. There's a lot of lichen-covered rock further left of the crack and very little, if any, protection options.
Location
Start below some easy ledges, just left of the obvious corner of Pooh's Corner. You should be able to clearly see the clean crack further up the climb.
Protection
Gear to 3" should be sufficient.
Routes in North Peak - East Face
- 27You, Me, and the Buzzard5.8Trad