- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1: Climb to the top of the short pillar. A large cam would be helpful here to keep it from being nearly a bit runout. From the top of the short pillar, move out left and up, following groove to a small, angled, right-facing corner. Climb this corner and gain the main large crack of the huge left-facing corner. Place some big gear as you move up and top out the flake to a nice ledge. (5.6 PG)
P2: Move right along the ledge and finish up the the easy right-facing corner to a large pine tree. There should be a cord and rap rings on this tree as it serves several climbs in the area (5.3 PG)
It's possible to lead it in one pitch but the rope drag across the ledge to link pitches is rather heinous.
If the rap rings aren't on the tree, either walk off to the north (right) to an easy downclimb at Pooh's Corner or walk all the way up past the observation deck and back around to the base.
Location
Start beneath a large pine tree, at the left side of a short pillar that's about 15' tall and is left of the obvious, large left-facing corner of Desperado. This is uphill a bit from the well-traveled Rox Salt crack.
Protection
In addition to a standard trad rack, take at least a #4 and a #5 cam. Rap station at the top on a large pine tree. A 60m rope will get you down in one rap.
Routes in North Peak - East Face
- 19Wolery5.6Trad