- Edit (TBD)
Description
The route begins under the crack that splits the middle of the Brass Wall Left face and runs into the right side of a bushy ledge. Start underneath a large boulder.
Pitches 1 and 2 (5.7) follow the first two pitches of Birdland up the crack to a ledge and then up (or next to, depending on how you are feeling) the chimney system to a large bushy ledge. Bolted anchors.
Pitch 3 (5.3): Scramble left up some bouldery pillar features to the base of the enormous right-facing corner at the bottom of the obvious crack and build a trad anchor. 50 feet.
Pitch 4 (5.8): Climb the crack through the center of the varnished face. It starts wide and narrows to hand size before running into a lip, which forms the short crux of the climb with good hands but little feet. Finish up as the crack narrows to finger size with good face holds to a bolted anchor and rap slings. This pitch is the reason to climb this route!
Pitches 5 and 6 (5.7 R): Not recommended. Climb the face to the top of the cliff.
Rappel with 2 ropes.
Protection
Standard Red Rock rack to a number 3 camalot. I found a set of nuts very useful on this climb.
Routes in Brass Wall
- 3The Big Horn5.8+Trad