Simpatico

Simpatico climbs the opposite side of the buttress formed by varnishing point. it begins in one of two places. 1. at the bottom of the ramp beheath the mini-r.facing corner into roof (easier) 2. below and to the left of said corner in another, short corner (lil' tougher, place a piece and then bring it with you once you've pulled the move)

the route is very good IMO and provides real, well-protected 5.10 climbing for 30 ft. or so and then transitions into lots of 5.7/5.8 R to the anchor via the arete. surf the arete and get in gear when available until you finally turn the corner left and take the face out (airy, no gear) to the top out. as soon as you step around the arete to the black face you can place a green or purple(or both) camalots that are solid.

find "bus stops here" and start immediately left in the nicer looking corner. or find varnishing point and walk towards orange clonus: you will see the mini-r. facing corner into the roof that jogs right very clearly on the right side of the varnishing point buttress.

single rack to 3'', extra runners for the gear above the roof. (i personally protect the roof by threading a 4 footer through a hueco and then tying it off w/ a 2 footer british style)

bolted anchor.

70 meter BARELY touches the ground on rappel.