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Peak Mountain 3

Unshackled

FA Equipped by Doug Reed; FA: Greg Kottcamp
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is as good as Southern sandstone sport climbing gets.  A steep, eye-catching line with perfect rock, and engaging moves that don't let up until you clip the chains.  A great test of power-endurance.

Scramble up the pillar then follow good holds to a short crimp section before a good rest below the first crux.  Cast into a fingery V6 boulder problem involving sequential slopey edges and a long move to a decent one-pad edge.  Grab another marginal rest in the horizontal break below the next roof.  Don't celebrate yet.  Another V6ish boulder problem with long moves between small edges take you over the roof to the anchors.

Savor this one.  It's one of the best in LRC if not the entire South.

Location

Just right of Area of Doubt.

Protection

Bolts and a two bolt anchor.