- Edit (TBD)
Description
True, this route is manufactured, but it is damn fun. Mostly natural holds with a few enhanced or straight-up drilled pockets to fill in the gaps. May have gone natural, but we will never know.
From the top of the pillar, establish on the wall and make some big moves on sidepulls and pockets to the first rest on a large horn. Make a long move to a good hold, then move slightly right and start an extended crux section with a mix of nice edges, underclings, and drilled pockets. A few moves are a bit reachy, but not stopper for shorter folks. At the end of the crux is a slight rest, and then a very thin crimp redpoint crux right at the end. Save a little energy to clip the chains because there isn't a great clipping hold.
Wish this thing went to the top of the wall like Unshackled...
Location
Left most route before the large corner.
Protection
Bolts and two bolt anchor.
Routes in Unshackled
- 2Area of Doubt5.13aSport