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Peak Mountain 3

US Rt 1

FA DCuster, SRuff, CChen, August 2019
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1 Climb the crack; step right; traverse left between a roofs/overlaps on positive fingertip crimps to return to the crack; when the crack becomes inconvenient, traverse hard left on good foot rail; then up and left to a belay in a shallow V-notch.

P2 Up the left side of the V, up and right past a small pine tree, traverse hard right, then up featured rock to a left-leaning ramp/crack system; up the ramp; at its top, up steeper rock to ledges.

Escape options include:

•4th class to the bushes in a long, slightly rising traverse to the right

•4th class to the upper bowl, 2nd/3rd class to the headwall, then 5.6ish climbing, either in the center of the headwall or just left of the chimney/ramp system on the left of the headwall

Location

Right of the huge left facing corner on the right side of the cliff and a few crack systems right of Rt 1 Business District is a another left leaning crack system; start at the base of this crack; see photo/topo.

Protection

Modern rack to #4 camalot