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Peak Mountain 3

King of the Road

FA DCuster & SRuff
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1 Climb up to the crack; up the crack; at the top of the flake, follow it left; step left from the top of the flake into the bizarre black water-streak corner/overhangs. Up these, tricky step left; up overlaps and the black corner until it steepens. Step right and up cracks to the huge ledge system. Belay at the base of the striking crack that gets wide and leads to a left-facing corner in the steep headwall. 5.8

P2 Climb the crack. Clamber up flakes/cracks to a stance at the base of the awesome corner. Take a deep breath and fire up the corner. At its top, step right to a belay stance. 5.10

P3 Traverse right and up; step right around an outside corner to gain a steep gully system; up and across this to trees in the upper bowl.

Escape: 2nd/3rd class to the upper bowl headwall; then 5.6ish climbing, either in the center of the headwall or just left of the chimney/ramp system on the left of the headwall

Location

Halfway between the huge Right Side corner system and a lesser, left-facing corner system to its left, an exfoliating flake that makes a fist crack in low-angle rock. Start in the shallow, left-facing corner beneath the fist crack.

Protection

Modern rack to #4 camalot; orange Metolius TCU and grey .4 BD cams useful for crux corner.