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Peak Mountain 3

American Hustle

FA Derek Field & Andy McQuillen (2018)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

American Hustle (5.10+, 240 feet, 3 pitches) Punchy climbing on the first two pitches followed by a scenic third pitch.

Pitch 1 (5.10+, 90'): Scale the short overhanging fist crack with stout moves to a wicked mantel (bolt). Continue up easier ledges past a tricky little fingercrack to a short 6" offwidth which leads left around a bush to a gear belay in the alcove.

Pitch 2 (5.9+, 80'): Climb the wide crack system starting with a height-dependent offwidth bulge and continuing up on interesting twin cracks. Belay from the two-bolt anchor on the ledge.

Pitch 3 (5.8, 70'): Traverse directly right along an airy shelf past a bolt (photo op here). Mantel straight above the bolt and shuffle right to a stance beneath the varnished face. Climb the patina face past two bolts and finish at the two-bolt anchor for Blood Money.

Descent: Rappel Blood Money (two 90' raps) with one 60m rope.

Location

Starts 30 feet left of Blood Money with a short overhanging fist crack and a bolt protecting the exit.

Protection

Double set cams to 3" + one each 4-5" cams one 60m rope