One-Nut Wonder

One-Nut Wonder (5.10, 230 feet, 3 pitches) This route got its name because the first several parties all found the same succulent nut placement at the first little crux on pitch 2.

Pitch 1 (5.6, 50'): Traverse horizontally right across a bulbous slab, passing three bolts en route to a two-bolt belay below the shallow dihedral.

Pitch 2 (5.10-, 90'): Climb the shallow dihedral past two bolts into a long moderate layback with intermittent gear. Nest a couple cams before committing to a steep jug haul up and right to exit the layback corner. Continue shuffling right past a 4" horizontal to the final crux bulge. The two closely-spaced bolts oughta keep you off the ledge, should you blow it. Belay from two-bolt anchor just below the Party Ledge.

Pitch 3 (5.10, 90'): Scramble up ledges to a fierce, thin layback that gains a cactus ledge. Slab up to a nice tight-hand crack which is followed until a step left out onto the patina face (look for the bolt above). Romp up the patina face and step across the chasm (another bolt here) to the two-bolt anchor.

Desent: Rappel the second pitch to the Party Ledge, then walk left along the Party Ledge to the two-bolt chain anchor for Blood Money. Rap 90' from that anchor to the ground.

This route starts on a sunny shelf about 100 yards down and right of Blood Money. Rope up on the shelf and start by traversing dead right on the slab out to the semi-hidden first bolt.

Double set cams to 3" + one 4" cam opt. extra 1.25" cam one set offset nuts - you'll find the one