Caught Red-handed

Cool route that begins in a recess. Start on the right wall of the recess. Get some cams in a couple of good horizontals, then get some thin gear (blue ball nut fits well) in a horizontal before clipping a rusty bolt up and to the right. reach high and right to clip another rusty bolt, before heading right out the roof. Get some good, reachy gear, and follow a C1 crack up to a small recess. Make a move and clip a nice stainless steel bolt. Move past an old rusted bolt sleeve (talon/bat hook this; actually pretty solid, as even though the placement is shallow, you are hooking on a metal thread of the sleeve), and reach for a nice cam. Trend left through white overhangs, aiming for a right-facing corner. Mantle onto a ledge at the corner, and carefully walk right for 10 feet to a set of stainless steel bolt anchors (anchors for the route The Great White Fright).

Note 1: It may be possible to skip the bolts near the beginning with some delicate hooking and sketchy gear, and massive ground fall potential. I tried this, and started breaking flakes with every hook, until backing off and deciding to clip the bolt. Even if you could skip the bolts, the hooking would not be sustainable for more than 1-2 ascents, so it is probably best for the rock to just clip the bolts.

Note 2: The guidebook mentions fixed pins in the white overhanging section. There were no fixed pins when I climbed the route. The only fixed gear were the two rusty bolts at the beginning, and the stainless steel bolt above the small recess (well, and the rusted bolt sleeve, if you want to consider that as fixed gear). Nevertheless, everything goes on decent, albeit reachy, clean gear.

In a recess with a giant boulder at the entrance, that also houses the starts to Jennifer's World, The Drainpipe, and The Great White Fright. Start on the right wall, beneath and left of a pair of rusty bolts.

Standard aid rack. Offet nuts and micro nuts useful in a few spots. Double cams from metolius 0 to BD #1. Triple in blue metolius. Single in metolius 00 and BD 2, 3, 4. Bring an extra 2 and 3 for a bottom anchor if soloing. Talon hook or bat hook useful in a spot. Ballnuts and tricams useful in a few spots.