- Edit (TBD)
Description
Really fun route!
Climb a nice handcrack to a two-foot wide ledge. Make some thoughtful and committing moves up to a left-leaning crack. Climb the thin crack to a bulge. Surpass this bulge on the right side, slightly below and to the right of a tree. Sling the tree and rap, or climb to the top via Tower's Chimney-ish. I stayed in the chimney until I made it to a left-facing corner about 15 feet from the top. Sling a tree at the very top. Bask in the amazing topout and view!
NOTE: Robinson guidebook has it mixed free/aid at 5.10+ A2 and 60 feet long, which would have it stopping at a tree on the ledge. I aided the route proper clean at C2+, and chose my own adventure for the remaining 50 feet. I passed my middle mark about 20 feet from the top, but accounting for my anchor at the bottom, I probably only climbed about 10 feet past, on a 60m rope---hence, route length of 110 feet.
Location
The Towers area at Sunset North. Start ~10 feet right of Thin Slivers, at an obvious hand crack at a tree sticking out of the wall.
Protection
Aid rack. Small nuts, offsets, and ball nuts helpful, along with small cams. A few places where a number 4 C4 is helpful. BD grappling hook is helpful for a move into the left-leaning crack.
Routes in Sunset North
- 7Moccasin Bend5.10+Trad · Aid