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Peak Mountain 3

Journey to the other side of the bridge

FA Colin Bartholomew (first reported ascent)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Let me preface this. Supposedly this route was climbed a long time ago but I cleaned it extensively and it has not been reported officially anywhere. Take it for what it's worth.

Description: Follow the rightward leading hand crack with good protection. Grab face holds when you can and pull up into the crack. Once there, follow the face up to a stance. Here, if you are tall enough you can get a yellow alien in the high crack. If not, you might have to run it out. If so, you're looking at a long fall. It is possible to sling a root at chest height but the FA party didn't so it's up to you. From here, pull the flake with marginal feet up to the next flake, with less marginal feet. Then pull onto the top.

Start with a steep leaning hand crack that brings you to a good stance. From here work in some protection and climb the face on good holds and sloping feet to the anchor above.

The anchor at the top also provides a good TR setup for the classic stemming corner below.

Location

The Inner Wall at Index Town Walls. Follow the description there. It is two climbs left of Toxic Shock, next to the 5.10d corner.

Protection

Two number one's and two number two's and a yellow alien. A few handsized cams and a few finger pieces should suffice.