- Edit (TBD)
Description
A line that climbs a lot like a Gritstone route.
Begin with one of two cruxy start options off the deck: Either start directly below the arete and make a deadpoint slap with your left hand using a severely polished left foot, or choose to traverse in from the left. Either way you chose, it is pretty difficult to get established.
Once you have gained access to the blunt arete, follow a series of insecure moves up the arete using a large amount of core tension, open-hand slaps and pinches, and inventive heel/toe hooking.
After the first 30 feet, however, the route becomes somewhat contrived, as it is very easy to escape around to the right of the arete and into the safety of the 5.8 crack.
Location
The blunt arete directly below "Even Steven".
Protection
Bolts with an optional small/midsize cam for midway.
Routes in Toxic - Tang Area
- 4Slapshot5.12aSport