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Peak Mountain 3

Go West Young Man

FA FRA: Brad White & Matt Peer Summer 2011-12
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1 – Same start as “Manifest Destiny”. Start at the toe of rock. Climb the slab via the center clean streak to a bolt at 25’. Climb slightly right to a short headwall, joining Illusion of Prosperity at a ledge. Climb flakes and thin cracks up and then left to a tricky step over at the left edge of the headwall onto a slab. Climb the easy slab to the right tree on the big ledge. Continue up the left facing corners above the tree moving slightly right to a two bolt anchor on a nice wide ledge. 5.7 140’

P2 – Follow the thin finger crack up and left across the entire face till the crack fades out at the top of a large low angle left facing groove under short twin finger cracks, belay here on gear. Bring many very small nuts and cams. 5.7 120'

P3 - Climb the right hand finger crack to small overlaps. Move right through overlaps and then straight up a slab to large pine tree belay. 5.6 60’

P4 –Step up right from the pine tree belay to two small trees on the same ledge. Squeeze behind the trees to step up and right onto the rock. Climb up 25’ to a short wall/overlap. Pull this on good edges below a short flake (good gear) on the top. Wander up the slab aiming for a prominent right facing thin flake in the overlaps. Layback a move up the thin flake then step left to good holds pulling two overlaps to the blocky white arête. Follow the arête to the woods. It is possible to finish from here by climbing out right and joining the easy slab to the top of the ledge on Manifest Destiny or just scramble up thru the woods to the top. You can also move left and do a short rappel from trees to the anchors on Old Route then linking anchors to the ground in four more single 70m rope rappels. 80’ 5.7

Location

Main Wall

Protection

Standard Rack. Microcams and/or micro stoppers may be useful on the second and third pitches.