- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1 Start at the toe of Rock ten feet right of the center (Manifest Destinys) clean streak. Climb 35 feet up a thin strip of clean rock (cam at 20) to a flat ledge below the steeper rock. Climb flakes and thin cracks up and then left to a tricky step over at the left edge of the headwall onto a slab. Climb the easy slab to the right tree on the big ledge. 5.7 70
P2 Climb up and slightly left to a bolt on a steep swell. Make 5.9 moves past the bolt to a horizontal shelf with a thin horizontal crack. Move right up steep slab to a hole with a bolt above. Climb left then straight up the center of the slab above getting protection on the right edge in scoops and cracks till a large double overlap with a small right facing corner above is reached. Pull the center of the two tiered overlap with good protection (crux 5.10) then move up and right 10 to the 2 bolt belay on Trail of tears. 5.10 (5.8 PG13) 140
P3 This pitch wanders a bit but picks up some good climbing on the way. Bring a lot of long slings if you are leading with a single rope to eliminate rope drag. The big overlap with the wide crack underneath can suffer from seepage after a lot of rain. Climb up and left for 35 crossing Manifest Destinys slab to a short smooth step. Pull the step at a nose of rock with a tiny one finger pocket on the left (crux, bolt). Climb the slab to the wide crack under the center overlap. Even though the crack is four to six inches wide smaller gear can be found up inside and to the left. Move left for 15or so till a step up on edges can be made to the next shelf. Move straight up the slab crossing a very thin horizontal crack to the next vertical wall. Protect, and then step right into a shallow right facing corner system. Climb this then move right crossing Manifest Destiny again to the steep crack in the center of the left facing wall of the dihedral. Climb the short crack (only 5.6!) to the arête and follow this to the gear anchor at the flat ledge on Manifest Destiny. This gear anchor takes perfect #2 (Yellow) Camalot size pieces and also a #1 (Red) so I would recommend bringing doubles in both cams and saving both of the #2s for the belay. 5.10a 130
P4 Finish straight up on Manifest Destinys 5.4 corner to slab. 115 5.4
Location
Main Wall
Protection
Standard rack to #3 Camalot with extra #1 and #2.