The Serpent

The route is quite good, with more protection on the lower pitches, it would be considered a 3-star classic. If climbed as an upper half finish to

Art's Spar

or

Rosy Crucifixion

, it is probably a 3-star classic anyway.

To find the route, first climb one of the several routes that will take you to the upper ramp. Just down and Right or upper

Ruper

(down and right of the finish of

Rosy

) lies an impressive looking, continuous, overhanging and left-facing dihedral system; this is

Le Void

. The smaller dihedral 1/2 way between Upper

Ruper

and

Le Void

is the beginning of The Serpent.

Start on the left side of the small, left-facing rounded dihedral and climb up some distance before crossing over the edge/bulge to the right hand side (5.9+, S) Climb interesting face moves (5.8, S/VS) to reach the bottom of a second overhanging dihedral. Although this is in the book as a "belay," the stance is small and uncomfortable and the gear is poor. I skipped the belay and ran 2 pitches together, which may require a 60m rope.

Continue up and left through the overhang into the dihedral, a radically left-leaning open book. Clip a few bolts and supplement with gear before and after if necessary. The crux (10b) is a balance and stemming affair that is well protected by the second bolt. After the 3rd both, the dihedral becomes more vertical. Move up and right onto a ledge that caps the pitch.

From the belay ledge, climb up just left of an obvious dihedral, using the dihedral as desired for some way, (50'?) prior to traversing right around the corner onto a ledge with a small tree. Keep an eye out for that tree as you climb and begin the traverse while it is just above you, but far right. With a 60m rope it is possible to again skip THIS belay and continue climbing up a crack/dihedral just right of the one you've just been in (5.9+) into what should be the 4th pitch, but another belay will then be necessary later.

Belay at the aforementioned tree, or step back left and continue up a crack system that terminates to easy runout-face, tending left on a slope top finish on

Ruper

.

There is a variation or two that I have found that involve some

terra incognito

to find yourself much further to climber's right on

T2

. This will involve non-descript climbing on low-traffic rock, with some effort expended fighting runouts and lichen. Be my guest. Perhaps a safe high-quality face route might go here someday if someone cleans the rock a little and then applies for and is granted a permit to put in a few bolts.

The protection in many spots leaves something to be desired at 5.9+. In others (at 5.8) it is non-existent. THe crux, however, is well bolted and safe. Take a standard Eldo rack with a set of cams to 3.5" and small stoppers.