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Peak Mountain 3

Slow Train Coming

FA Jimmy Ratzlaff and Steve Hadik
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An excellent bolted slab climb in a fantastic location and with a name from a Bob Dylan song to boot!

Surprisingly this route does not receive as much flack as Genius Loci for being so close to a classic trad route. Perhaps it makes people feel silly to rail against a Slow Train that's coming. Anyway, the climbing is devious and requires wicked foot work on tiny holds. This is a good route to do if you're coming down from the Upper Ramp with time on your hands. It could also be used as an alternative start to the Naked Edge. (But only after you've done the real first pitch.)

After finding your way to the first pitch of the Edge, climb down a few feet and head right around the corner. It's a little airy over there which adds to the excitement. Then climb up and left passing the 2nd and 3rd bolts and the crux of the climb. Hang in there on small holds and think positive thoughts about your footwork. If your toes are going numb, you're probably doing something right. This route ends at the same bolted anchor as pitch one of the Edge. Eight bolts total, no gear necessary on this pitch.

Protection

10 QDs (plus standard Eldo rack to get up there).


Routes in Redgarden - Tower Two


  1. 20
    Slow Train Coming
    5.11a
    Sport · Trad