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Peak Mountain 3

Arch Tower: Martial Arch

FA Dakota Walz & Matthew Eckelberg 4/18
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Martial Arch climbs up the same crack that separates the arch and the tower that

Arch You Glad

goes up, EXCEPT from the south side of the tower instead of the north. This side is a bit shorter, easier, and sports better rock quality.

P1

. Begin in a short dihedral to a roof just 15ft off the deck. Traverse a sandy loose ledge to the arrette and climb the crack to the huge ledge. The rock quality is drastically better above this short section. From the ledge stem and follow various cracks up to the splitter corner until it turns into the arch. Traverse 8ft right to another crack to belay,

(5.9, 35m)

.

P2

. From the belay traverse back to the opening of the arch and left across its leg aiming for the bulb with a thin crack. Mount the bulb and then the flat shoulder of the arch. Traverse back over right and anchor in a thin soft seem,

(5.6 PG, 15m)

.

P3

. Climb up the final shoulder to the summit. Other than a hidden knife-blade there's no gear up here. Cross over the East leg of the arch to the summit of the tower for a gear anchor.

(5th class R, 10m)

DESCENT

. Hike east to the raps of

Knot in My Backyard

Protection

Single 70m, double rack to #3, nuts