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Peak Mountain 3

Tandem Towers: Token Englishmen

FA Dakota Walz & and Aaron Pugmire 6/18
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Description

The Tandem Towers are two "towers" that push the definition of towers being taller than they are wide. They were first aid climbed by Steve "Crusher" Bartlett, Zach Bishop, and Stu Ritchie in 2005 via routes on the East side.

Approach

After reaching the southwest face of the Tandem Towers, find a corner to the left of the large roof at the shoulder between the towers.

P1

. Climb up the thin, overhung corner and pull up into the vertical off-width. Fight the off-width until coming up on a short slab.

(5.10, 25m).

P2

. From the slab swim up beautiful hand jams as the crack begins to lean to the left. After a couple awkward sections reach a huge sharp ledge. Belay takes #1-4.

(5.9, 25m).

P3

. Either traverse across the ledge to the center of the shorter tower and and climb up loose rock to the bolted summit or climb straight up to it through more loose rock.

(5.7, 5-10m)

note: We climbed the first two pitches in one 50m pitch, but rope drag and sharp rock made this option less than favorable.

DESCENT

Double rope rap off a two bolt anchor puts you on the ground.

Location

Northern Reef, Smith Cabin Area. From the parking area hike due west crossing the creek at roughly a tenth of a mile. Follow the wash west for .6 miles until reaching an open area where the canyon opens four ways. Continue due west and stay low in the wash for .85 miles. Then, exit up out of the wash toward the towers.

Protection

Double rack to #4, two 60m ropes