Chasm Crack

The normal climb,  1 pitch:  Traverse out from over the chimney with small gear for about 8' till a move up lets you gain the crack system above. Partway up the crack divides; follow either crack for ~30' up to flakes and easier ground above. End at a ledge with a large pine.

Variation - 5.10 as per BrianWS: Alternately, this route can start direct, at around mid 5.10. Instead of traversing in above the 20' drop, start below. Some tough moves through positive holds will bring you a few feet left of the crack system.

Extension Second pitch to top out, 5.6 PG13: From the rap tree at the top of Chasm Crack, traverse left a few feet and climb a nice 15' hand/fist crack to small pine trees at the edge of a slab (sling one for pro with a long runner). Make a gently rising, rightward traverse onto the clean slab and up a faint water groove, passing one bolt. Wander up easy slabs and brushy ledges passing gear placements and slinging small trees to reach the top of the Reflector Oven. Belay at a large chestnut oak, or the Southern-most rap anchor if you know where to look for it. Walk off to the West/Northwest, avoiding the laurel slick by keeping it on your left side until you reach the Ridge Trail (5 minute walk). There is no trail, and dont create one. The NPS frowns on social trails and there are enough beat down areas outdoors already. Alternatively, use the bolted rappel stations for the Upper Terrace routes to return to the base of the crag. FA of pitch Mitchell Goldman and John Wright 3.21.20 Ground Up. Bolt placed on lead.

Walk left along the reflector oven past Strawberry Fields and Report to Sickbay to a 20' drop between the main wall and a detached boulder. Start by traversing in above this drop.

To gain the alternate 5.10 start, scramble thru a notch about 30' back from the wall, behind the detached boulder and hike around to the bottom of the 20' drop.

Gear to 3". I had doubles, but bolder climbers could easily go with a lighter rack. There is a stout pine with a slings 10' left at the top. For a more in-line belay, build a gear anchor in the crack.

For the 5.10 variation, suggested to bring a few finger sized pieces in addition to the standard rack required for the rest of Chasm Crack..

Descent - From the tree, you can rap back to your start point with a little pushing/traversing to the right. A 60m should reach the ground straight down too, and you can hike back up to where you started.