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Peak Mountain 3

Don't Pro the Flake Bro

FA Steve Curtis, 2008
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Best done in 2 pitches. Start at bolt 10 feet right of Return to Sickbay. Climb past large flake - pro to the left if you pro at all - and climb line of bolts. Difficulty rises as you ascend. Belay at the upper anchors of Sickbay. 2nd pitch begins with bolt and then moves right to arching crack. Move past roof, clip bolt, climb either the crack to the right or step left for another bolt. Beautiful belay spot at the top of the slab.

Note to shorter climbers: upper section contains a very reachy 5.11 move.

Location

10 feet right of Return to Sickbay.

Be very careful on the descent. Rapping from the top with 60 meter rope is pretty sketchy - you might get there depending on rope stretch. A tree 20 feet above the Sickbay anchors can be used as an intermediate station if need be.

Protection

9 bolts, Aliens, RPs, Nuts and 1 Red BD cam.

Upper pitch contains short section of 5.10 R climbing but very manageable if you can climb the lower pitch.