- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start at the right side of the north face of the dome below beautiful looking crack with pitons?
Climb up stiff 5.9+ face climbing up the coarse grained granite (no pro) and right to the start of the fingertip-lyback crack (piton?) at the contact of the fine grained aplite. Work through the rattily finger/barndoor 5.11- crux to a med. to large cam belay at the ledge above.
Note: this route was put up before the advent of TCU's, which is why pitons were fixed on the FA. If you aren't climbing real solid, you can set up a top rope after climbing "Smooth Sailing" to the left.
Historical factoid: The beachball-sized rock at the base of the climb used to be pasted at the contact/base of crack above, and on a subsequent ascent, a #2-1/2 friend was placed behind that block. I fell on the friend, which popped the flake off and I grounded out landing on my feet -- just as the block came crashing down inches from crushing both my feet. -- RB
Location
Look for the aplite crack with fixed pitons(?) about 15' above a beachball sized boulder at base. This is the far most right route on the north side.
Protection
Original FA fixed two 3/4" angle pitons in crack, which may still be present. Use small cams/units and/or nuts to protect the crack (and backup the pitons if present) as the stiff 15' face below has no bolted protection.